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Showing posts with label Georgian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Georgian. Show all posts

Thursday, 13 April 2017

Manchester Gallery of Costume Research Trip

Last week I traveled to Manchester with my Dad to see the gallery of costume. From the reviews I saw, I wasn't expecting much, as quite a few of them seemed to be rather negative or indifferent - but when I got there, I was pleasantly surprised by how much better it was than I imagined. For one thing, it was much bigger than the reviews made out, and the costumes were absolutely gorgeous.
I was floored by how wonderful the costumes were, as they had everything from the 1600's-1960's (though unfortunately no 1950's dresses that would help with my college project). My favourite was the Victorian room, as everything in there caught my eye and made an impression, but I also loved the 17th Century and 18th Century displays.
There was an exhibition downstairs centred on Mary Quant, a designer from the swinging sixties, which I also particularly liked as it was bright, featuring quotes and day and evening dresses from the Ginger Group collection. She was one of the designers I researched at one point to see which era of fashion I wanted to explore for the final project.


Playsuit by Mary Quant, black with white stitching - 1968-70.


Two mini dresses, one black and white cotton ticking (1967), and the other acrylic/wool grey check tweed (1967-9). I love these two dresses, and can imagine wearing them with some brightly coloured, bold tights. Maybe mustard or burgundy?


Sac coat, 1967-69. Dogstooth-check rubberised wool.


Then came the Victorian room, which I ADORED. Here we have a day dress from 1863-65 made from tartan glace silk. It's a two-piece dress, trimmed with silk piping and black and white satin bands. I can also see some kind of colourful tassels on the shoulders, though I didn't get a close up photo of it.



Sorry for the bad photo here, I couldn't get one that wouldn't reflect on the glass because of the windows. This is a day dress from 1855-56, made from white muslin, and printed from a roller in purple spots and a floral pattern. The flounces were printed à disposition, meaning that the pattern was printed to fit the flounce. 


Now this 1870s dress was my absolute favourite in the whole museum! I love the 1870s and princess line dresses, as well as the duck egg colour of this gown, so it was just my cup of tea! It's an afternoon dress from 1878-80; the description says that it's a trained princess-line dress made from pale green wool/silk mixed fabric, trimmed with blue satin and silk embroidery.


Isn't the embroidery and shape divine?


Even the train is embroidered.


Afternoon dress, 1883-85. It's a two piece gown fashioned from green/grey silk satin with a boned bodice and trimmed with beige lace.


Detail of the bodice. I really like how the colour goes with the lace.


Day dress from 1894-96, in two pieces with a very pale green flecked and corded silk, trimmed with a darker green velvet. I couldn't get a good photo that had all of the gown included, but it is just plain/the same fabric as the rest of the skirt all the way to the hem, without any trimmings at the bottom.



Corset, crinoline, chemise, drawers, and cap. 1860-70. The red is very fetching!


I just love this demi-bust corset, the colour is fabulous and it has cute diamond-shaped stitching patterns! Looks like I've found a new dream corset.


A man's doublet. 1625-35.


I think the fabric is all hand-done French knots from what I can remember, though I may be wrong!


A gorgeous pair of stays with a stomacher, 1620-40.


A pale pink woman's bodice embellished with black beading. 1650-60.


The feathered details, which were apparently uncommon for clothing at this period, but featured heavily in home textiles such as curtains and rug designs. I think it looks beautiful and delicate with the pink.


I didn't take a photo of the date or description of this one for some reason, but I wanted to include it because I really liked the shape and embroidery of it!


Is this called blackwork embroidery? It has tiny little sequins/spangles too.


Two candy-coloured men's waistcoats from 1780-1800. Love the salmon pink and pale blue!


This was my second-favourite dress in the whole museum, and one that received a lot of positive attention on the 18th Century Sewing group on Facebook when I posted it. It's so delicate and sweet in a shade of powder blue. Sackback dress, 1766. Striped blue and white figured silk. Trimmed with silk fringing, silk flounces, ruched bands, and double-tier silk sleeve ruffles.


I had to get many photos of this for all the details and because I adored it.




Chintz dress, 1775-80. Open robe of glazed cotton, printed with rows of stylised sprigs in India and then printed again in England with alternating bands of floral wavy lines.


Skirt looped up à la polonaise style.


I don't think I got a description of this one, but I'm guessing that it's a round gown from the early 1790s with a vandyked flounce at the neck, drawn together by ribbon through a channel. Sorry if I'm wrong, please correct me.


Evening dress, 1798-1800. White cotton muslin open robe, embroidered with tiny metal stars all over, which the sign remarks would have been very costly at the time to make.


Open robe of brown silk satin, 1793-96. It's printed with a warp print (chine) motif in stripes of white and green.


All together! It was crowded, so you might see why it was hard to get good photos, and I was also pushed for time. Which gown is your favourite? Comment below!

Friday, 8 July 2016

1770s Indienne Gown Part 2: Draping a Francaise

First of all I prepared my lining, as Katherine instructed. This was draped by myself using Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 as a guideline. I stitched the bodice lining together by machine and pressed all of the seams outwards, with the right side on the mannequin. It fits me pretty well considering I had just eyeballed it and hoped for the best!


Next, I cut my francaise back to 54 inches, which is a period width, and cut the shoulders out, as Katherine recommended. I pinned these shoulders to the lining armholes, and then found the middle of the panel by folding it in half and pinning it to the center back. Then, pleat, pleat, and pleat again! I did a couple of quite deep pleats first, and then some smaller ones over the top of that, with an inch or so of the original two pleats showing beneath. After smoothing down the sides, I pleated two more times on each side. This is the end result, which I'm pretty happy with considering it is my first francaise gown I've attempted!


I really love the colours and delicacy of this print.





Wednesday, 6 July 2016

1770s Indienne Gown Part 1: Patterning

Today I started work on patterning my Indienne gown, deciding that it's going to be a self-drafted robe à la française, using Katherine's tutorials and Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion book 1 as my guides.
Katherine first of all recommended making a lining that fits your body, so I did that, using Patterns of Fashion as a shape reference for the front and back lining pieces. I used a mannequin and draped the fabric across, pinning it straight and taught as I went. Then I drew some outlines of the book's pattern pieces onto the fabric, creating a front and a back muslin. I transfered this to newspaper print by drawing around the edge (adding roughly one centimetre seam allowance around all edges), and adding some width to the front panel, about an inch or so.

Here you can see it pinned loosely to my mannequin, which is a smaller size than the gown I'm making. When I have some spare fabric or go out to buy some, I shall see if the lining I make is the right size for me, and if it is, roughly, I'll start work on pleating the back of my francaise using my IKEA fabric!


Back


Front and shoulder strap pieces


My reference


Tuesday, 28 June 2016

1770s Indienne Gown: The Planning Stages

Through Vivien's blog, Fresh Frippery, I discovered that along with some friends she has made a beautiful robe à l’Anglaise retroussée from an IKEA duvet set, called “LJUSÖGA”. I heard that the fabric style was historically accurate, and therefore I jumped at the chance to go along to IKEA and buy a set! I got the double set, which came with four pillowcases. (Hope you don't mind me jumping on the bandwagon, as it looks a lot of fun!)



I plan on making the duvet into either a Robe à la Française if I have enough material - I did get the smaller version as we're a bit short on cash at the moment - or a robe a la Polonaise if I don't have enough fabric for the flowing pleats at the back of a Francaise. From the pillowcases, I may make another fichu.

In my mind, I have something like this image below planned, with a pinned front and similar sleeves. I've made a sketch, but I have yet to refine it and scan it in. The petticoat will be a similar shade of red, and I'm thinking a simple straw hat with red trimmings for day wear. But before I start any of that, I need to make a functioning pair of stays! My last ones turned out awful as I forgot to shape the boning, so it cut into me - literally - and was very painful to wear.

Robe a la Polonaise from the V&A, 1775-1780

As a side note, at the moment I am still sewing the bodice of my Edwardian Maude's Summer Day Dress, and I have a feeling that some photos of my progress will come very soon!

Wednesday, 15 June 2016

1790s Spotted Gold Open Robe

Today I finally finished this project that had been on hold for so long! It took a lot of hand sewing to get it to the final stages, such as sewing on the binding at the back and hemming by hand, using an invisible slip stitch.
I'd never usually sew so much by hand, as it's time-consuming and quite mind-numbing in my opinion, but I've found it rather relaxing over the past few days, as I can sit in my room, listen to music, and just get on with it in peace - no heavy sewing machines and broad table spaces needed.

Here are some photos of it on the mannequin, completed with my 1790s chemise en robe and turban, as well as a 1940s pearl necklace (but shush, nobody will notice, I hope!). This is the ensemble I will be wearing this weekend hopefully, for some photos at a National Trust destination that I've never visited before - so I'm pretty excited!





Pinned together at the front, which is a historically accurate fastening.


The 'invisible' stitches from the front,


I love the view from this angle, as it really reminds me of late 1790s - early Regency evening wear!

In this picture you can see my rather large slip stitches, which should be almost invisible on the other side. I'm not sure why, but the gold looks more like silver in this photo.


 Soon I'll have better pictures of the robes, worn on me at a historical site.