Wednesday, 6 July 2016

1770s Indienne Gown Part 1: Patterning

Today I started work on patterning my Indienne gown, deciding that it's going to be a self-drafted robe à la française, using Katherine's tutorials and Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion book 1 as my guides.
Katherine first of all recommended making a lining that fits your body, so I did that, using Patterns of Fashion as a shape reference for the front and back lining pieces. I used a mannequin and draped the fabric across, pinning it straight and taught as I went. Then I drew some outlines of the book's pattern pieces onto the fabric, creating a front and a back muslin. I transfered this to newspaper print by drawing around the edge (adding roughly one centimetre seam allowance around all edges), and adding some width to the front panel, about an inch or so.

Here you can see it pinned loosely to my mannequin, which is a smaller size than the gown I'm making. When I have some spare fabric or go out to buy some, I shall see if the lining I make is the right size for me, and if it is, roughly, I'll start work on pleating the back of my francaise using my IKEA fabric!


Front and shoulder strap pieces

My reference

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